Day 100, September 8, 2628.9-2653.6, and back to 2647.2 ~30mi
Today is the day I finished the PCT. Last night I walked into a campsite around 7:45pm, met a hiker named compass, and we decided to hike the last day together. About 21 hours later we were sitting at the border together celebrating our successful thruhikes from Mexico to Canada. He shared his “field baklava” made with a tortilla, honey, and walnuts, and shared his 0.5l of boxed wine with me. I couldn’t add anything unique. Some other highlights of the day: woke up to big rain drops at 510am while cowboy camping. I raced to pitch my tarp (only pitched 12 times in 100 days on the PCT) and went back to sleep for less than an hour. I saw many other hikers returning from their Canada trip, a few I knew somewhat well. Great views from awesome passes that are cloaked in reds, purples, oranges, and yellows as leaves on shrubs begin losing some color. I am camping at Hopkins Lake, just south of the border.
Day 99, September 7, 2594.1-2628.9, 34.8mi
Beautiful night with lots of stars in the sky. I said adios to Lobo in the morning and was on trail by 7:15. I grabbed some water and started climbing uphill. I summited Cutthroat Pass and had awesome views of the rocky craggy peaks of the North Cascades. Folks talk about how the trail is awesome north of Rainy pass and that sure was the case. I spent the morning thinking about a few things. When I started the trail I had the idea that a 2700 mile thruhike consists of about 900 hours of walking at a 3mph pace which is what I’m pretty comfortable at. Whether you hike 15mi a day or 30mi a day, you split the time differently but are walking the same amount of time in 90 days or 180 days. For me, thruhiking this trail has required day after day of working towards a specific goal. I can’t walk much faster than 3mph so a mile passes every 20 minutes if I’m walking. 20 minute chunks add up until I’ve hike 10 miles in the morning, 15 in the early afternoon, and 25 or 30 by evening. 27 miles in a day is about 1% of the trail and that’s a whole days worth of effort. I repeat that effort day after day, 1% plus 1% over all these days and I find myself 99% of the way to Canada on day 99. It’s such a small increment of progress, painfully slow, but no shortcuts available, no other options but putting one foot in front of the other for hours and hours a day. It’s such a big goal but progressively I’ve been able to chip away at it. It makes me wonder what I could do if I could see incremental, albeit small, progress on other goals. What would I direct that energy to? Would I be able to dream bigger in ways I cannot fathom right now? The thought of finishing the trail and facing the other world feels directionless without a clear cut objective that I can slowly chip away at. Anyways beautiful hiking today with circuitous meandering on ridges. I only saw a few other folks all day and had a great conversation with a USFS employee at Harts pass. I dumped some food at the hiker box and hiked on to a campsite. I’m camping with Compass and he wants to finish together so we can take a photo of each other. I can’t believe tomorrow is my last day of the PCT though I’ll have to hike out Thursday back to Harts Pass.
Day 98, September 6, 2572.9- 2594.1, 21.2mi
Last night we slept in the concrete pad. It was pretty warm since we were at around 1000ft above sea level. I caught the 8am shuttle out of town, stopped at the bakery then to the trailhead. I saw Tide at the bakery, said a few goodbyes to some hikers I knew bought a sticky bun and got on the bus then hiked out on the trailhead. I watched a common merganser bob through some class 2 rapids, not even fishing. It was just like a kayaker bobbing through rapids on a river. How fun it must be to be a waterproof duck enjoying the surf. Yesterday a hiker was reflecting about how profound the PCT experience was and someone was asking them what lessons they learned from this big ol’ experience. They asked me and I didn’t have any good answer. I’m happy to be here and I remind myself that every day this is the best thing I could be doing and there is no where else I’d rather be. However, I’m not sure if I have any life lessons or big grandiose thoughts about the experience as a whole. Maybe I’m just tired. I caught up to another hiker who had done the AT and asked him about it and he said some folks have profound life changing experiences while others don’t and that’s okay. Maybe I’m just happy where I am in life even if I have no idea where that is. I mulled on that for awhile climbing out of the Stehekin valley. At rainy pass there was some trail magic hosted by Suzy and Eric who are grandparents to Sam, a hiker I’ve heard of but haven’t met. I met Suzy and Eric at trail days with Rugrat who knew them. We had a good time and I talked with them and lobo. We had Gallo pinto for dinner with chips, delicious. I camped with Lobo tonight and talked about life and such. A frog jumped in my bivy while I was cowboy camping. Beautiful night. I also finished The Hour of Land book today. Terry Tempest Williams calls for direct immediate action to protect our nations Parks. It struck a chord with me.
Day 97, September 5, 2550.1-2572.9, 22.8mi
I slept alright last night in a sort of busy camping area near a creek. One guthook comment said they saw a mountain lion there so I was a little uneasy. Luckily another camper had a dog with them so I figured the dog would be more alert than me to a mountain lion. I woke up around six and packed up fast, hitting the trail by 6:15. I was on a mission knowing that the bus to town would come at 3pm and I didn’t want to miss it. There was a bit of a climb from camp to the top of a pass. On the way up I had excellent views of Glacier Peak glowing pink with the sunrise and large cotton candy clouds billowing above the peak also awash in pink. At the top of the pass I saw craggy ridges and a deep glacial valley in a big U shape. Very cool! Around here I also crossed the 100mi to Canada mark. From there it was mostly downhill with only a few small climbs to the road to Stehekin where I waited for the bus. While descending I listened to Terry Tempest Williams’s book The Hour of Land. I enjoyed listening to a book about nature, wildness, and the US National Parks while hiking through a wilderness area. While waiting for the bus another hiker gave me some unfinished Cheetos that a mouse had gotten into. I was famished so ate them. I also found a tortilla in the trash and some dirty but not holy socks in the trash. I’ll throw them in the laundry. Hope I don’t get sick. The bus arrived and brought some unfortunate news: the restaurant is closed due to lack of staff so the only food in town is the bakery. We stopped there, I spent too much money but loaded up on some pastries and lasagna and salad for dinner. Bummer. Then we headed into town. I hung out a bit with Ox and we split laundry. I tried to swim but the lake was cold. The group campground set aside for hikers was full so I’m sleeping on a concrete pad near the bathroom. This town is indeed very pretty but with the restaurant closed, the general store having nothing except beer and chips (not even candy or ice cream!) and not much to do in town I’m ready to get out. If I knew ahead of time I probably would have skipped this town.
Day 96, September 4, 2516.6-2550.1, 33.4mi (actually ~29mi)
Had a pleasant night last night no precip. Another slowish start to the day getting on trail at 7am. Right away there were some tough blowdowns to navigate and I got a little lost….frustrating. Then the trail was kind of overgrown and there was a big climb. At the top of the climb was the fire pass which had an awesome view N to some jagged peaks with glaciers, south to Glacier Peak, and across to some large granite walls. Super awesome. The descent was fast and I passed Mica lake. I considered swimming….and I would have liked to but it was a bit chilly at 930am and the water was not warm. There was an awesome rock to jump off into the lake though….dang. After there was a long descent with overgrown trail and some blowdowns to Milk Creek followed by a big climb up and out. Slow and kind of frustrating going. At the top I met a SOBO section hiker and I asked about Suiattle River. The trail there does a big 6mi roundabout to a big fancy bridge put in recently to replace an old washed out bridge. I had considered and talked with others about crossing the river on the old PCT trail and skipping ~6mi. He said the river was fast moving and deep but what irked me was his attitude of how I should hike the 6mi and enjoy it, after all isn’t that why I am out here?? Well sir, I’m not sure why I’m out here but I think I’ve done enough walking to consider some shortcuts as long as I don’t cheat by getting in a vehicle. It’s easy to look through rose colored glasses when you haven’t been on trail for literal months. I’m still enjoying my trip but I am ready to finish. Anyways….good views after talking to him then met some other NOBO section hikers, a couple cool guys. Chatted with them on a long descent and they were considering the crossing shortcut as well. At the junction we decided to go for it. Unfortunately from our direction the old trail is about 2mi to the river so it’s an investment just to get there and turn around, not something that can be observed from the PCT and then a decision made. We followed the trail, bushwhacked a bit, but honestly not as overgrown as the PCT sections we were just on. At the wide flood plain we b’whacked to the river side….it was moving fast and looked deep and silty. We saw a couple other NOBO PCT hikers that the section hikers recognized. We went over and take to them, Grandpa and Walmart two-socks. They had scouted the river N to S of where the trail comes out and didn’t see any downed log or good place to ford. First the two section hikers tried to ford together, one breaking the water with a staff and the other behind pushing him for support. That didn’t work well. Then we tried to make a bridge by getting logs and wedging them off a downed log that was halfway across. It kind of failed. Thankfully no one got hurt picking up heavy logs as a team and balancing on loose round river rock. Finally the two section hikers just went for it and swam across. They made it, the current was strong but they were on the other side. We started tossing stuff to them and setup a handline zipline to zip packs and gear across to them. It worked! Our stuff made it across and the three of us were next. We took turns jumping in and swimming like hell to the other side, a few short strokes were all that was needed but in that time we were 20-30ft downriver. Then five of us were standing on the other side with all of our stuff, yippee!! We were stoked. We packed up and started climbing up the hill. Thankfully the PCT wasn’t far and a few minutes of steep scrambling and we were on it. We had a mellow climb up. I chatted with Grandpa (a young dutch guy) and Walmart two socks and had dinner with them. We were all going to camp a couple miles further but the site was taken by an older two people who seemed reluctant to share…. frustrating as it was almost 8pm, getting dark, and the unstated rule out here is “there is always room for one more.” I pushed another 0.5mi and am camping at a stream where there are plenty of spots and nice folk. What a river crossing. We didn’t save any time but we did avoid about 6 trail miles and walked 2 bonus for a net gain of 4mi saved! At the time and looking back it was kind of a stupid thing to do. I’m sure I’ll reflect a bit on it in the coming days and years.
Day 95, September 3, 2483.6-2516.6, 33mi
I was warm last night!! I cowboy camped and had to unzip my sleeping bag in the middle of the night, how nice!! I got going about 645am and had a pleasant morning. Around 10am I came around a bend and Haiku and Coach were there. There was a bit of cell service which may be the last cell service on trail for the rest of trail. Thank goodness. Last night Tide rolled into camp and told us that since we were planning on arriving to Stehekin on Sunday afternoon and Monday was labor day we wouldn’t be able to pick up our boxes from the PO until Tuesday at 10am, ouch. I used the cell service to call the Stehekin PO and they answered. The guy was willing to set aside my box for me in the lobby to be picked up when I arrive regardless of the PO being closed, woohoo! He did it for Haiku and Coach too. So thankful that I had a bit of cell service there to make that happen. The rest of the day the trail followed ridges and was gorgeous. It was a little smokey in the morning but seemed to clear up after lunch. Haiku is also a bird watcher and we both saw two new birds for the trip, the fox sparrow and the white-winged crossbill. We had lunch at reflection pond which was kind of dark and murky. Then we were in for a treat, we walked along some ridges and had awesome views of craggy peaks off in the distance with glaciers coming off them. After that we went over a pass and saw Glacier Peaks west and north flanks. I ended the evening watching the sun set on Glacier Peak and Black Mountain, glowing pink with alpenglow. I’m cowboy camping in a cozy spot next to the trail protected with trees. Hopefully it doesn’t rain tonight! I stopped a couple miles short of what I was thinking I’d do. It’s been getting dark earlier and earlier. I have 5 more days of walking and 137 miles from here to Canada (plus 30mi back to a road). It is crazy to me that this trip is less than a week away from the end. Though, I do think I’m ready to be done.
Day 94, September 2, 2465.2-2483.6, 18.4mi
Hung out in Leavenworth for most of the morning. Watched some Austin Powers and had a casual time. I ate some frozen burritos and a muffin and drank coffee. When it was finally time to go to the road to try and get a hitch it was around 11. After 10+ minutes, Haiku, Tide, and I were offered a ride from Carl who said he’d be happy to take us up but needs to stop at Starbucks first. We got in and he took us to Starbucks where he bought all of us drinks and croissants even though we tried to get him his coffee. Super nice of him. He had hiked the first 42mi of the trail last year trying to thruhike but got off because of COVID-19. Maybe next year he will hike. Upon leaving town we met a couple from Switzerland who we crammed into his car, 5 hikers plus the driver! Luckily I got front seat. We arrived at the trailhead and used some of the remaining cell service to call home. My dad got me a plane ticket out of Seattle. Really I should have dealt with it myself but I ended up panicking at the TH. The hike out was nice. Lots of water and finally some views!! I could see many jagged peaks of the cascades including Glacier Peak and I think Rainier way off in the distance. I passed by Valhalla lake with a cool jagged mountain towering above it. Nice hike. Camped a bit early with Haiku and I want to do 30+ miles tomorrow. Tide rolled in not too much later. Tide reminded us that we were on schedule to get to Stehekin on Sunday (PO closed) but Monday was labor day so probably PO closed again…..bummer. I’m going to sleep well tonight cowboy camping with all my sleeping pads and tricks in place. Yippee!!
Day 93, September 1, 2451.2-2465.2, 14mi
Well, decided last night to go into Leavenworth. It was cold this morning. I felt my heat leaving my body through the ground. I’m convinced that wet ground transfers heat better than dry ground. Oh well. I wasn’t on trail until 730am again and started in a puffy until the first climb. Just a few hundred feet above where we slept we found frost on the ground, brr! Thankfully the day was warm and clear. We finally had views and I enjoyed them. I ate a lot of berries, had a second cup of coffee, and before I knew it I was on top of a pass looking down to Stevens pass. I hustled downhill, picked up my box, then Haiku, Coach, and I all hitched into Leavenworth with a nice guy in a van build. In town we ate at a too expensive Mexican place (15$ for two tacos without rice and beans) and hung out. We checked into the Loge hotel which is kinda cool. Shared bathroom, outdoor hipster style, and had dinner at a Mexican place. Leavenworth’s theme is Bavarian village which seems kinda kitschy but kinda cute. Hoping I get an early start to trail tomorrow.
Day 92, August 31, 2420.8-2451.2, 30.4mi
Woke up to rain on my tarp. I was too cozy to get out of bed and wasn’t on trail until 730am. Last night I camped with Coach and Tide and was super cozy in the sleeping bag my dad sent me. Thanks Dad! Walked through mist and clouds all morning with only some views of the surrounding peaks. That was kind of the mood for the whole day. I also saw a grouse on trail, sooty I think. I chatted with a section hiker named Eric for a couple hours. He taught me about a new to me edible berry. I’m camping a bit early at glacier lake so that I can go into town tomorrow with Haiku, Coach, and Tide. Two days of rain isn’t the end of the world but definitely a downer. Especially in a section that’s supposed to be beautiful but I can’t see anything.
Day 91, August 30, 2394.2-2420.8, 26.6mi
Cleo left early from the hotel and the rest of us got breakfast at the pancake house (again, very good!) when they opened. We were joined by Long haul and Camino, two older guys who have experience hiking other long distance trails. Cool people, funny and fun to talk with. We hit the trail around 930am and I met Meatgrinder and chatted with him for a bit. Then I caught up to Tide and we walked most of the way around each other, chatting a bit. We saw a mama and kid mountain goat. The mom stared me down on the trail. Pretty cool. Awesome views today as we entered the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. We saw craggy peaks, cool catwalks, and some glaciers sorta peaking out below the clouds in the evening. Some beautiful lakes, alpine views, and a bit of mist/clouds kept it interesting. I had a good time in town but now it’s time to focus on the 8 more days to Canada!! I’m going to need to maintain a good pace of just over 30mpd which shouldn’t be too tough but is a little push which I like.
Day 90, August 29, 0 miles
I dragged my feet getting out of town. Balloons and I had a not super early breakfast, chatted a bit, packed up, and checked out by 11am. I wanted to make a couple calls before getting on trail then found later we were hanging out at a picnic table and dragging my feet to get outta town. Coach, Haiku, Tide, and Cleopatra then arrived and the decision was almost sealed I was going to zero. I ended up zeroing. Some highlights: fried bean and cheese burritos from the Chevron, pizza from the pizza place, trolli gummy octopi, soda, watching Naked and Afraid, and hot tub and sauna with haiku and tide. Balloons ended up zeroing too with us. It was fun and I think much needed. In the future I should make my decision before packing up so I can just hang all day.
Samuel D. Parks 
Way to go Sam. Love your posts, thanks for sharing. See you soon.
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